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<channel>
	<title>Clarksville Home Inspections &#187; Home Inspection Blog</title>
	<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com</link>
	<description>Residential Home Inspection and Commercial Inspection in Clarksville TN.</description>
	<pubDate>Sun, 01 Jun 2008 12:48:47 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.3.2</generator>
	<language>en</language>
			<item>
		<title>Choosing The Best Grass Seed For Your Area</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/choosing-the-best-grass-seed-for-your-area.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/choosing-the-best-grass-seed-for-your-area.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:24:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[grass seeds]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[lawn care]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[successful lawn]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[thick grass]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/choosing-the-best-grass-seed-for-your-area.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Growing a healthy lawn involves preparation &#38; maintenance, but regardless of how well you&#8217;ve done both if you choose the wrong seed you will fight an uphill battle &#38; the lawn is doomed. Grasses that flourish in an open sunny area may not survive in the shade. Some grasses are more durable than others &#38; [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Growing a healthy lawn involves preparation &amp; maintenance, but regardless of how well you&#8217;ve done both if you choose the wrong seed you will fight an uphill battle &amp; the lawn is doomed. Grasses that flourish in an open sunny area may not survive in the shade. Some grasses are more durable than others &amp; are better suited for high-traffic areas.</p>
<p>Grasses are separated into cool &amp; warm season varieties. Cool season grasses including bluegrass, annual &amp; perennial ryegrass, &amp; bent grass should be used in cooler climates. Cool-season grasses are usually blended in a seed mix than can be spread with a broadcast seeder. In warmer climates, use warm-season grasses including St. Augustine, Bermuda, centepede, &amp; buffalo grass. Warm-season grasses are planted as singl-species plugs.</p>
<p>Some seeds need more water than others, but in general you can expect to do more watering if you live in an arid part of the country, (duh). If you live in a mixed climate you may need to blend warm &amp; cool-season grasses for a successful lawn.</p>
<p>Most likely, the seed sold in stores in your area will grow there &amp; will be marked for use in sunny or shaded areas. I have always had good luck with a mixture of rye &amp; fescue in the Clarksville area, but you may want to check with the Co-op extension service or one of the local nurseries for your particular application. You can even take a soil sample to the Co-op for a free analysis to get a better idea of what your lawn may require. It&#8217;s getting that time of year so get a game plane together &amp; get to work!</p>
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		<item>
		<title>What&#8217;s The Difference Between Floor Tile &#038; Shower Tile ?</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/whats-the-difference-between-floor-tile-shower-tile.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/whats-the-difference-between-floor-tile-shower-tile.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2008 02:44:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ceramic tile]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[floor tile]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[shower tile]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tile cof]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[wet area tile]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/whats-the-difference-between-floor-tile-shower-tile.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I recently helped one of my sister&#8217;s with a kitchen/bathroom remodel in her Nashville condo &#38; a question that I thought I would share with you came up. What&#8217;s the difference between floor tile &#38; shower tile? Well, ceramic tile makes a durable, low maintenance shower enclosure. But specific types of floor tile can&#8217;t be [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I recently helped one of my sister&#8217;s with a kitchen/bathroom remodel in her Nashville condo &amp; a question that I thought I would share with you came up. What&#8217;s the difference between floor tile &amp; shower tile? Well, ceramic tile makes a durable, low maintenance shower enclosure. But specific types of floor tile can&#8217;t be used in wet locations-not because they&#8217;ll be damaged by the water, but because they can become dangerously slippery when wet.</p>
<p>Tile manufacturers use a numerical value called a coefficient or friction, or COF, to rank how much traction a tile surface provides &amp; in wet locations that number should be .60 or higher. manufacturers may not print the COF on the cartons &amp; in that case it would be wise to ask about it. (Some building codes may even require a specific COF)</p>
<p>Some types of tile are too porous for use in a shower even if their size &amp; texture seem appropriate. Natural clay pavers would let the water soak right through so they should be limited to dry areas.</p>
<p>Another factor is size, some floor tiles are available in up to 18&#215;18, but that would be too large to conform to the slopes that are in most shower floor pans &amp; would crack. I have seen larger tiles broken up &amp; then laid on the floor in a mosaic fashion or you can use factory sheet mosaics that are flexible, form nicely to the floor pan &amp; are quicker to install. Never use wall tiles in place of floor tile as they are not strong enough &amp; will not last.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Eliminating Ladder Whistle</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/eliminating-ladder-whistle.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/eliminating-ladder-whistle.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Mar 2008 14:02:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[extension ladder]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ladder rack]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ladder whistle. ladder safety]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/eliminating-ladder-whistle.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you haul a ladder on the top of your vehicle on a regular basis you are probably familiar with the ladder whistle that is caused by the air rushing by the holes at each end of the rungs. While this can be a temporary annoyance for a one time project, if you are hauling [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you haul a ladder on the top of your vehicle on a regular basis you are probably familiar with the ladder whistle that is caused by the air rushing by the holes at each end of the rungs. While this can be a temporary annoyance for a one time project, if you are hauling your ladder every day for work like I do it begins to close in on insanity. Well, here is how I solved my ladder whistle problem. I put the ladder on saw horses &amp; sprayed expanding foam in each rung hole, then when the foam had set up I went back &amp; trimmed it flush with a long razor blade. Even if you don&#8217;t haul a ladder on a regular basis this can still be of benefit in preventing things like a wasp nest &amp; the accompanying sting when you drag that ladder out this spring for your projects around the home.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Getting The Most For Your Money At The Gas Pump</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/getting-the-most-for-your-money-at-the-gas-pump.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/getting-the-most-for-your-money-at-the-gas-pump.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Feb 2008 00:21:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[fuel economy]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[fuel prices]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[fuel value]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[gas pump]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[saving at the pump]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/getting-the-most-for-your-money-at-the-gas-pump.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Below are some useful tips I received for getting the best value at the pumps &#38; wanted to share them with our readers.
Only buy or fill up your car or truck in the early morning when the ground
temperature is still cold. Remember that all service stations have their storage
tanks buried below ground. The colder the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Below are some useful tips I received for getting the best value at the pumps &amp; wanted to share them with our readers.</p>
<p>Only buy or fill up your car or truck in the early morning when the ground<br />
temperature is still cold. Remember that all service stations have their storage<br />
tanks buried below ground. The colder the ground the more dense the gasoline,<br />
when it gets warmer gasoline expan ds, so buying in the afternoon or in the<br />
evening&#8230;.your gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum<br />
business, the specific gravity and the temperature of the gasoline, diesel and<br />
jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products plays an important role. A<br />
1-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for this business. But the service<br />
stations do not have temperature compensation at the pumps.</p>
<p>When you&#8217;re filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to a fast mode.<br />
If you look you will see that the trigger has three (3) stages: low, middle, and<br />
high. In slow mode you should be pumping on low spe ed, thereby minimizing the<br />
vapors that are created while you are pumping. All hoses at the pump have a<br />
vapor return. If you are pumping on the fast rate, some of the liquid that goes<br />
to your tank becomes vapor. Those vapors are being<br />
sucked up and back into the underground storage tank so you&#8217;re getting less<br />
worth for your money .</p>
<p>One of the most important tips is to fill up when your gas tank is HALF FULL or<br />
HALF EMPTY. The reason for this is, the more gas you have in your tank the less<br />
air occupying its empty space. Gasoline evaporates faster than you can imagine.<br />
Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating roof. This roof serves as zero<br />
clearance between the gas and the atmosphere, so it minimizes the evaporation.<br />
Unlike service stations, here where I work, every truck that we load is<br />
temperature compensated so that every gallon is actually the exact amount.</p>
<p>Another reminder, if there is a gasoline truck pumping int o the storage tanks<br />
when you stop to buy gas, DO NOT fill up&#8211;most likely the gasoline is being<br />
stirred up as the gas is being delivered, and you might pick up some of the dirt<br />
that normally settles on the bottom.</p>
<p>Hope this will help you get the most value for your money.</p>
<p>DO SHARE THESE TIPS WITH OTHERS!</p>
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		<title>Sidewalk De-Icers</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/sidewalk-de-icers.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/sidewalk-de-icers.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Feb 2008 23:51:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[de-icer]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[deicer]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ice removal]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[safe deicers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[sidewalk deicer]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[snow removal]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/sidewalk-de-icers.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Deicers work by chemically lowering the freezing point below 32 degrees to melt ice. Regular salt (sodium chloride) is the best know &#38; proven deicer, but it&#8217;s not the best choice if your concerned about the environment, or if temperatures get well below 32 degrees F.
Avoid damage with any deicer by following the application instructions [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Deicers work by chemically lowering the freezing point below 32 degrees to melt ice. Regular salt (sodium chloride) is the best know &amp; proven deicer, but it&#8217;s not the best choice if your concerned about the environment, or if temperatures get well below 32 degrees F.</p>
<p>Avoid damage with any deicer by following the application instructions &amp; quickly removing the ice once melted from the area. Deicers are not intended to be used alone, they are meant to be an aid in the removal process. Here are 3 typs of deicers.</p>
<p>Sodium Chloride (NaCl)</p>
<ul>
<li>Irregularly shaped crystals</li>
<li>Considered chemically safe for use on concrete, but may cause freeze-induced damage to other masonry</li>
<li>Lowest effective temperature 20 degrees F.</li>
<li>Leaves a white powdery residue when it dries</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Toxic to vegitation</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p align="left">Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2)</p>
<ul>
<li>
<p align="left">Flake form less effective than pellets</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">May cause freeze-induced damage to masonry</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Lowest effective temperature 5 degress F.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Leaves no powdery residue</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Safer for humans, animals, vegitation, &amp; environment, compared to other deicers</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p align="left">Calcium Chloride (CaCl2)</p>
<ul>
<li>
<p align="left">Flake form less effective than pellets</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Poses least threat of freeze-induced damage to masonry</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Lowest effective temperature 25 degress F.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Used as directed will not harm vegetation</p>
</li>
<li>
<p align="left">Leaves harmful residue on carpet, tile, shoes, etc.</p>
</li>
</ul>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Amazingly Simple Home Remedies</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/amazingly-simple-home-remedies.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/amazingly-simple-home-remedies.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Feb 2008 13:31:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/amazingly-simple-home-remedies.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ 1. If you&#8217;re choking on an ice cube simply pour a cup of boiling water down your throat. Presto! The blockage will instantly remove itself.
 2. Avoid cutting yourself when slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold while you chop.
 
  3. Avoid arguments with the Mrs. about lifting the toilet seat by using the sink.
 
  4. For high [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><font size="2" face="Arial"> 1. If you&#8217;re choking on an ice cube simply pour a cup of boiling water down your throat. Presto! The blockage will instantly remove itself.</font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Arial"> 2. Avoid cutting yourself when slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold while you chop.<br />
 <br />
  3. Avoid arguments with the Mrs. about lifting the toilet seat by using the sink.<br />
 <br />
  4. For high blood pressure sufferers: simply cut yourself and bleed for a few minutes, thus reducing the pressure in your veins. Remember to use<br />
     a timer.<br />
  5. A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.<br />
 <br />
  6. If you have a bad cough, take a large dose of laxatives, then you&#8217;ll be afraid to cough.</font><font size="2" face="Arial">  </font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Arial">7. You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn&#8217;t move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn&#8217;t move and does, use <font size="2" face="Arial">the</font><font size="2" face="Arial"> duct tape     </font></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Arial"><font size="2" face="Arial"> 8. Remember: Everyone seems normal until you get to know them.<br />
 <br />
      Daily Thought: SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR  ANYTHING BUT  BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN   PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS                     </font></font><font size="2" face="Arial"><font size="2" face="Arial">                             </font><font size="2" face="Arial"> </font></font></p>
<p><font size="2" face="Arial"><font size="2" face="Arial">If you can&#8217;t fix it with a hammer, you&#8217;ve got an electrical problem.</font></font></p>
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		<item>
		<title>What To Do When Removing The Drain Trap</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/what-to-do-when-removing-the-drain-trap.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/what-to-do-when-removing-the-drain-trap.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Feb 2008 02:41:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/what-to-do-when-removing-the-drain-trap.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[homemom3 Says:
February 5th, 2008 at 4:07 pm Thanks for the quick response. Is there anything I should do before unscrewing the trap? I’ve heard horror stories about that thing.
You might want to put a pan, bowl or bucket under it to catch any water that may be spilled, let us know how it goes.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a rel="external nofollow" href="http://homemom3.blogspot.com/"><font size="2" color="#0066cc">homemom3</font></a> Says:<br />
<small class="commentmetadata"><a href="http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/wp-admin/#comment-539"><font color="#0066cc">February 5th, 2008 at 4:07 pm</font></a> </small>Thanks for the quick response. Is there anything I should do before unscrewing the trap? I’ve heard horror stories about that thing.</p>
<p>You might want to put a pan, bowl or bucket under it to catch any water that may be spilled, let us know how it goes.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Risks With Microwave Ovens</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/risks-with-microwave-ovens.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/risks-with-microwave-ovens.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 03 Feb 2008 17:41:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/risks-with-microwave-ovens.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We&#8217;ve all heard stories about eggs &#38; potatoes exploding in microwave ovens. Those stories are true because as the food cooks, pressure inside the skin builds. If the skin is as hard as an eggshell, the pressure can build quite high before the skin breaks &#38; the egg explodes.
Arcs are those miniature lightning bolts that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We&#8217;ve all heard stories about eggs &amp; potatoes exploding in microwave ovens. Those stories are true because as the food cooks, pressure inside the skin builds. If the skin is as hard as an eggshell, the pressure can build quite high before the skin breaks &amp; the egg explodes.</p>
<p>Arcs are those miniature lightning bolts that occur when microwaves are caught between two metal objects. The metal racks found in many microwave ovens won&#8217;t cause arcing by themselves, but metal such as a fork or foil placed near the rack or oven wall can cause arcing. Even the gold rim of a china cup can cause arcing, so make sure the cookware you use is microwave safe. Another source of arcing is the buildup of certain foods, such as tomato, on the walls of a microwave oven (a good argument for keeping your oven clean). When arcing occurs, turn off the oven immediately to prevent damage.</p>
<p>Another danger with microwave ovens is superheated water. If water is placed in a smooth container in a microwave oven, it can be heated well past it&#8217;s boiling point, yet remain still. When an object (a spoon, teabag, grains of sugar) disrupts the surface tension, the water boils violently in a small explosion that can cause severe injury. So always follow the oven instructions for heating or reheating water, &amp; if ther is a chance the water has become superheated, let it cool at least a full minute before handling the cup.</p>
<p>Along with a host of other electronic devices, the energy generated by a microwave oven can cause a cardiac pacemaker to malfunction.</p>
<p>One misconception is that microwave ovens give off harmful radiation. The radiation from a microwave oven is no more dangerous than radiation from a television.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Common Problems with Fiberboard Siding</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/common-problems-with-fiberboard-siding.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/common-problems-with-fiberboard-siding.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 Jan 2008 03:55:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/common-problems-with-fiberboard-siding.php</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fiberboard Siding (often referred to as Hardboard Planking) was manufactured by several companies including Louisiana-Pacific®, Masonite®, Weyerhaeuser® and Georgia Pacific®.
While this type of siding was made by numerous manufacturers, each company’s fiberboard siding is made in roughly the same manner and tends to have the same issues.
After this siding has been installed for some length [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fiberboard Siding (often referred to as Hardboard Planking) was manufactured by several companies including Louisiana-Pacific®, Masonite®, Weyerhaeuser® and Georgia Pacific®.</p>
<p>While this type of siding was made by numerous manufacturers, each company’s fiberboard siding is made in roughly the same manner and tends to have the same issues.</p>
<p>After this siding has been installed for some length of time, it tends to expand slightly. This causes the area around the nail heads to become damaged. This in turn allows moisture to penetrate into the siding and deteriorate it.</p>
<p>As the moisture level increases, the siding’s edges tend to expand. This expansion breaks the paint, which, in turn, allows rainwater to be absorbed by the siding causing a breakdown of the glue holding the wood fibers together. Deterioration of the siding increases as the moisture content of the siding rises.</p>
<p>Fiberboard siding also tends to expand and contract along its length, thus breaking the seal where the boards are joined together. This contraction breaks down the caulk that was applied during installation (hopefully), again leaving the siding vulnerable to water penetration.</p>
<p>It is critical that the caulking on this type siding be maintained in good condition. Also, regular repainting of the siding is an absolute must. Hand painting of the bottom of each course of the siding with a brush is the only way to ensure that the exposed fibers of the siding get sealed.</p>
<p>It may be possible to slow down the deterioration of fiberboard siding by regular painting and caulking; however, home owners should be aware that there will be problems with their siding in the future.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>GFCI Protection- Receptacles or Circuit Breakers?</title>
		<link>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/gfci-protection-receptacles-or-circuit-breakers.php</link>
		<comments>http://www.clarksvillehomeinspection.com/gfci-protection-receptacles-or-circuit-breakers.php#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:17:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Johnny Goad</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Home Inspection Blog]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI&#8217;s) help to prevent electrical shocks by shutting off the current as soon as an imbalance in the hot &#38; neutral is detected. Current codes require GFCI protection on all kitchen &#38; bathroom outlets &#38; in other potentially damp locations like basements &#38; garages.
If you are building a new home or retrofitting [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI&#8217;s) help to prevent electrical shocks by shutting off the current as soon as an imbalance in the hot &amp; neutral is detected. Current codes require GFCI protection on all kitchen &amp; bathroom outlets &amp; in other potentially damp locations like basements &amp; garages.</p>
<p>If you are building a new home or retrofitting an older one you can use either an outlet or circuit-breaker GFCI device.</p>
<p>A GFCI outlet, which costs 10-15 dollars, has it&#8217;s own built-in circuit breaker as well as a reset button. When installed properly, a GFCI outlet will protect all other outlets on the same circuit as long as the GFCI outlet is the first one on the circuit.</p>
<p>A GFCI circuit breaker, 30 + dollars, is an easier way to ensure that all the outlets &amp; fixtures on any given branch circuit will be protected. GFCI breakers also function like standard breakers to protect against overloaded or short circuits.</p>
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