Archive for April, 2008

Bathtub Surround Preparation

Saturday, April 26th, 2008

Donnie J says, my bathroom is gutted to the studs, & I’ll be tiling the bathtub surround. Should I drywall this area & then put up cement backer-board, or dose the backerboard go directly over the studs? Do I need felt paper?

Don’t put up drywall under the backerboard. I am a believer in the felt behind the cement backerboard practice, but there are a lot of professionals that question the need for it & install without it. Your tub should fit snugly to the studs & have a support ledger under the long side. You should fur out the studs so that the backer board comes down over the lip of the tub leaving a space between the bottom of the backerboard & the top of the tub to prevent moisture wicking of the backerboard. Also make sure you tape the backerboard corners & joints with fiberglass sheetrock tape & mud them with thinset & you should be ready to start tiling.

Polarity Matters

Thursday, April 10th, 2008

Mike L writes, On old fashioned lamp plugs, both prongs on the plug are the same size & the lamp works any way you plug it in. On new plugs the prongs are different sizes. I’ve been told this is to keep the polarity constant. What is polarity & why does it matter.

Polarity refers to the two conductors of an electrical circuit. These conductors are called poles, as in the poles of a magnet. One pole is a supply & the other is a return. The supply is the black or “hot” wire & the return is the white or “neutral”.

In modern receptacle outlets one slot is taller than the other. The tall slot should be connected to the neutral conductor & the short slot to the hot. That’s normal polarity.

Modern plugs match these receptacles & correspond to wiring in lamps, appliances & tools. A lamp is wired such that the neutral wire goes to the casing of the lamp socket & the hot wire goes to the tab or button at the bottom of the socket. The routing path is an important safety feature. If your installing a bulb without unplugging the lamp, you’re more likely to accidentally touch the socket casing than the socket tab. For a tool or appliance, the hot wire is fed through the switch. That means there’s only an inch or two of energized wire in the case of the tool or appliance. If the polarity is reversed, virtually all the wiring in the case (including all the motor windings if there’s a motor) is energized when it’s plugged in. Damaged insulation on a wire or a motor winding could energize a metal tool case, creating an electrocution hazard. Correct polarity is another way of putting the odds in your favor.

When replacing the cord or plug on an appliance, be sure to get the connections right: The neutral wire is the “identified” conductor. It may have ridges running along it’s length or a colored thread between the wire & insulation.